They seemed utterly united in their passion for the good things in life: Maldon salt, fresh herbs, children and grandchildren, wood-fired ovens, Florentine gelato, designer Italian sunglasses.
The loss of Rose has been a bitter blow. 'I don't want to sound too American,' says Ruthie, looking chic if pensive in a sleeveless grey shift dress. 'But it has been a long journey.'
The out-of-season strawberry tart is part of that journey. Rose was a generous ambassador for the charity Breast Cancer Care, which offers support and information for sufferers.
One of its main fundraisers is the strawberry teas hosted by volunteers every summer; last year alone, through thousands of small-scale events, a total of �450,000 was raised.
Ruthie has decided to carry on Rose's work with a strawberry tea for the press. Because of the insane schedules of glossy mags, it has to happen in February.
Also at the tea is Gill Blair-Park, one of the stalwart organisers of Strawberry Teas. She lives in Bishop's Stortford with her husband, Nigel, and three young children. Gill got involved when her mother died of cancer seven years ago.
She becomes tearful when she talks of 'how proud' her mother would be. Gill's strawberry teas, which happen in the grounds of her local church, have gradually grown. She now invites more than 100 people to enjoy her 'cakes oozing with strawberries'.
She has raised more than �1,200 for Breast Cancer Care. Apart from the money, Gill feels the events are a 'great way of raising awareness'. There are pink napkins, gingham bunting and pink wafer biscuits for the children who run around, laughing in the sunshine.
It sounds far removed from the very restrained tea we are enjoying at the River Caf�. Ruthie's strawberry tart is served with a tiny smear of cr�me fra�che. Out of season or not, the strawberry bellini is one of the most refreshing drinks I have ever tasted, astringent and deeply fruity.
There are no pink wafer biscuits. The food writers sitting round the white linen tablecloth speak quietly and reverentially of Rose.
The brilliance of the strawberry tea fundraiser is that it can be whatever you want ? fine china and Wimbledon week, or messy berry smoothies at the school f�te. What Gill's and Ruthie's teas have in common is this: the memory of a dearly loved woman. And strawberries: the taste of an English summer.
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